Monday, 14 May 2012

Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly



"Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly"

 Choose from glass or acrylic, with and without metal frames.
 You will not want a tank less than 45 cm long, 30 cm wide and 30 cm deep unless you are buying it as a hospital, quarantine or breeding tank.
 As a rule, divide the surface area by 12 to get the length in fish you can accommodate. 

But bear in mind that you should use the adult length of the fish in your calculations.

 Often a glass tube with both of them in will be used with temperature control on the top of it and a separate thermometer installed.
 Allowing 10 watts per gallon of water would mean a 150 watt heater for a 12 gallon tank.
 Lighting SystemLighting is necessary for plant growth and also shows off the fish at their colorful best.
 The lights are usually installed into your tank cover.

Mimic nature by subduing the light or turning it off in the evenings.

 For example a filter may have a combination of a physical layer of material to collect fine solids and a layer of charcoal to chemically adsorb organic pollutants and maintain the water quality.
 Ensure you have a n anti-siphon valve for the air pump.

 They act as areas for the fish to hide and for shelter if they feel like it.
 Look out for rocks with a high calcium content (limestone) as that will make your water hard and unless a specific requirement will not do any good.

Caves can be set up for cave-dwelling species by joining a few rocks together with silicone sealant or you could buy a purpose made one.
 Use your rocks and logs etc to hide your equipment from view.
 Run water through the gravel until it becomes clear.
 But bear in mind that you want to maintain a balance and keep a realistic amount of free swimming area for both the fish and you to see them enjoying themselves.

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